Thursday, September 22, 2005

18th September till hometime - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil


Copacabana Beach
Originally uploaded by Polly and James.
Our luxury coach to Rio with semi-beds was fab so we arrived after this 24hr journey pretty bright-eyed and bushy tailed ready to hit the city!!

Hostel great - caipirinhas leathal - sun trying to come out - been out to Samba clubs - ticked lots of boxes on the sights to see list - masses of fun to have and the clock´s ticking so going to get off this computer now!!

The 9 months have flown by :-( !!

....but can´t wait to see you all v.soon xxxxxxxxxx

14th - 17th September - Iguazu / Iguacu Falls, Argentina & Brazil


The Falls in the rain!
Originally uploaded by Polly and James.
After a hideous long journey lasting over 24 hours on several freezing buses we arrived chilly and tired in Puerto de Iguazu in Argentina. It was thrilling to see the thick rain clouds covering the small town and steam coming from our mouths - had we in fact come on holiday by mistake!?

We checked out a local hostel but it seemed rather chilly so the hotel down the road offering heating, sauna and all you can eat breakfast and dinner buffet was just too tempting!

Basically it rained on us pretty much non-stop but it was still spectacular seeing the falls set in beautiful rainforest. In fact, despite getting very wet and cold with the rain and spray it may have even been more spectacular than normal with so much extra water - so maybe we were lucky to not have the bright blue skies that people had the week before!!??

Lots of lovely walking and great food!

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

9th - 13th September - The Pantanal, Brazil


Jibiru
Originally uploaded by Polly and James.

We arrived at the Bolivian/Brazilian border by overnight train (compfy seats but so bumpy it felt like the train thought it was on the parallel bars Pink Panther Stlyeeee!) After playing at getting food into our mouths but actually hitting our noses more often, we failed to get much sleep.

A few negotiations later with some chaps from the Green Track agency outside the Bolivian immigration office, we were soon sitting in a funky little VW campervan heading to the Brazilian town of Corumba - you have to drive into Brazil for about 20 mins and get to the bus station to go through immigration so for quite a while we were in no-mans land - or did we not actually exist anywhere!? Not sure!

Anyway, we soon arrived at our crumby hostel and set about sorting our trip into the Pantanal - the huge wetlands area, where wildlife spotting is supposed to be the best in S. America.

The town was eerie with dark pinky brown smokey skies dropping chunks of charred undergrowth on our weary swedes as the local farms were burning lots while we were there...and also fairly dank! Not what we were expecting from our first stop in vibrant Brazil but we had a good pizza to keep us occupied!

Early next morning we scurried round ready for our pick up - only to find we had set our watch wrong and the time hadn't changed from Bolivian time - duh - could have had an hour loafing in bed!

A few hours later we were bouncing down the track into the Panatanal on our way to our farm stay for 3 days. We saw masses of beautiful huge birds, lots of caimans and capybaras as well as a fateful wallowing hairy old porker as we drove through the landscape but were rudely interrupted by a family in their jeep who ploughed into the back of us! Poor buggers had more of a shock than we did - we were up in the back of our truck and I could see them coming, with Dad watching the said gert wild pig wallowing next to the road and not watching us - where his posh new Chevrolet jeep was heading! Crunch! Luckily no one was hurt as they were still going pretty slowly...but wifey didn't look too chuffed!

After a couple of hours we arrived at our farm for the next few days and met the few others whose group we joined, made ourselves comfortable in the hammock shack before a hearty lunch of beans and rice! Phhhhrrrttt!

Bosco, our cowboy Dukes of Hazard Styleee guide then took us on a 3 hr walk to spot what we could spot! It was roasting hot and we saw more of the ususual suspects - mainly beautiful birds including the Rosetta Spoonbill, which we decided sounds rather like a nice goody-twoshoes girl from Harry Potter.

That night we had a few beers, with extremely dodgy lairy Brazilian music being blared out from an old car, round a good old campfire, before snuggling into our sweaty bat-infested hammock shack!

Within minutes (actually 5hrs later) Bosco was waking us up in the pitch black to set off Piranha fishing - disturbing the bats as we went. We caught more than enough for lunch and then had a good snooze till they had been cooked for us lazy tourists! The weather had turned strangely chilly so we all snuggled into our hammocks with what turned out to be flea ridden blankets - nice!

(No joke - we have since discovered some sort of livestock as new travelling companions!! ugh!!)

Later we had a good old cowboy horseride where we galloped and giggled our way through the Pantanol - not seeing any big cats but it was still spectacular.

After a swift Caipirinia by the fire before a freezing night with the bats and livestock for company, we were soon leaving to race onto the Iguazu Falls - just 24hours on several chilly buses to deal with first!!

So - now we're on the Argentinian side of the falls, full of sizzling meat and red wine after a good long hot shower ready to trek round the falls tomorrow - after a good nights conventional sleep (I hope!)

Thursday, September 08, 2005

5th - 8th September - Uyuni to Santa Cruz, Bolivia


More gossips
Originally uploaded by Polly and James.
We´ve made it to our last port of call in Bolivia, Santa Cruz (ah...ah...ah...ah - or something like that by The Thrills that Mummy keeps singing over email to us!!)

We took a rather sweaty and extremely stinky cramped bus from Uyuni to Potosi (the highest city in the world). Beautiful place, unfortunately tainted by my rushing to and from the baños with unpleasant frequency! About time I got my dose - 8 months without any bother is pretty good going!!

Potosi is famous as the silver mining centre of Bolivia, where people (as young as 13) are still working in hideous conditions down the mines. Meanwhile, the rest of the city busied themselves looking chic and wealthy.

After our extreme bus stench we decided to exploit our relative wealth and spend 2 squid each on a shared taxi for the 3 hour journey to Sucre. Amusingly, our other passenger was a well-to-do looking elderly chap who stopped the car at any opportunity to buy bag loads of cakes from the hawkers. Literally bag loads!! The driving style was entertaining since the whole journey was spent at erratically different speeds, not bearing any relationship to the course of the road! Often in neutral down hill slowing to snails pace, then winging round hairpin bends at 80kmh!!

Sucre is another beautiful colonial town and being much lower we were able to shed our silly hats!

After bus and taxi we decided to really go the whole hog and take a 35 minute plane to Santa Cruz, rather than the 15 hour bus journey on offer. We're getting rather pinickety in our old age!!

Santa Cruz (ah..ah...ah) is a massive modern city, very unlike anywhere else we've seen in Bolivia, and best of all I'm eating and retaining again! Hurrah!!

The hostel here is great, delicious breakkie - complete with resident toucans and parrot!

In an attempt to travel in as many ways as poss we have booked an overnight train to the Brazilian border. Tomorrow morning we should be ready to hit the Pantanal region of Brazil - a wetlands area bigger than France apparently with more wildlife spotting opps than any other place in S.America! Lush!

3rd - 5th September - Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia

After a mammoth overnight bus journey from La Paz - albeit in a high luxury Mercedes bus equipped with DVDs, dinner service and big comfy seats - we arrived in the drab town of Uyuni. It was so bloody freezing at 7 in the morning that the resident St Bernard was even wearing an Alpaca jumper!! - but the sky was the bluest blue bluey blue blueness we´d ever seen - not a cloud in sight!

After a hearty second breakfast (second to the luke warm tea on the bus!) we jumped into our private Landcruiser jeep to head into the famous Salar de Uyuni - the biggest salt flats in the world - about 12000 square kms! The norm is a three or four day tour but we were running short of time following our delayed flights from Rurre - and in the end it was pretty lush to have a whole jeep to ourselves!

Braulio and Lulu were our guide and cook for the trip - they were fantastic company and the food was fab - although we´re not too sure whether Polly´s diversion from her normally steel stomach mightn´t have something to do with the smelly eggs we had for breakfast!!

The first views of the Salar were truly amazing - although we´d seen pictures it really felt like being on another planet - bright white flatness for as far as the eye could see - and surrounded by huge volcanoes. Braulio was a great driver as we sped through the middle of the flats on no particular tracks - it was like driving through a massive snow field - I desperately wanted to get behind the wheel!!

We stopped at an 'island' where nothing grew except monster cacti - some up to 1200 years old, others bizarrely shaped like willies! It was wonderfully warm during the days and being at 3600m was great for the sun tans! Having said that, at night it could damn cold again - about minus 7 degrees! Tucked up in our sleeping bags in the hostel though we didn´t care! and of course a bottle of cheap Bolivian whisky helped too!

Pol also got a bit more witch doctor natural therapy action on her knee by dipping it into the icy cold sulphurous water mysteriously bubbling out of the ground - apparently people from all over South America come here for healing!

The next day we crawled out of bed at 5.30am and headed into the middle of the Salar for probably the best bit of the trip - watching the sun rise. Lulu then heroically cooked us a full brekky in the middle of the Salar at about minus degrees whilst we larked around with the longest shadows you´ve ever seen!

We climbed a huge volcanoe (extinct luckily!) for stupendopus views over the flats. This was also where we visited a sacred cave inhabited with old mummies of the original settlers - a spooky place, especially when we learnt that the mummies were between 1600 and 1800 years old!

Lulu once again pulled out the stops and served up chicken and chips in the middle of nowhere!! We scoffed lunch surrounded by flocks of pink flamingoes and then headed back to Uyuni.

Overall a fabulous trip - one of the most memorable and incredible landscapes we've ever seen.

Thursday, September 01, 2005

30th August - 1st September - Amazon Basin Jungle, Bolivia


Tarzan
Originally uploaded by Polly and James.
After a night back in Rurrenabaque recharging the batteries afer our Pampas expedition we set off for the jungle rainforest areas. We jumped aboard another semi dug out canoe - this time with a much fatter outboard though - to motor up the river Beni into the Madidi national park. The weather was stunning and the lush green of the jungle soon surrounded us as we wound up the river and branched off on to the river Truchi. We had some fun and games negotiating the rapids as the river was pretty low - no problem as we all jumped into the water Indiana Jones style to push the boat up stream!

After about 3 hours cruising along the river (and several jumps overboard!) we beached the canoe and trekked about 20 minutes into the jungle to our campsite - all the while keeping a keen look out for massive spiders and squiggling things! It was bloody hot and humid so we went for a swim before lunch - assured by our guide that any alligators would be more scared of us than we of them!

In the afternoon we searched for all sorts of beasties including a tree full of bats that sounded like it was alive as the bats fluttered their wings. There was a huge hole that we could stick our heads in to look up into the tree and see the bats - it was only after we´d pulled our heads out that Eric told us the bats were related to vampire bats!!

Full of food and almost asleep we headed for our night walk in search of jaguars, tapirs and other impressive beasts - needless to say we must have scared them all off as we didn´t see a bloody thing! It was quite eerie though sat in the middle of the jungle at half ten at night waiting for a massive cat to come and attack us!!

We slept like babies and after breakfast the next day we went back out tramping around for more sights and sounds. We saw a willy tree (photo will be obvious!), a jungle viagra tree, a very large snake and some lovely macaws before having to head back downstream in the canoe after lunch. Luckily we didn´t have to perform any heroics in the rapids on the way back! All in all a great couple of days - and we survived without seeing any tarantulas!!

Unfortunately our flight back to La Paz has been cancelled because of rain - the runway is just a field after all!! Hopefully it´ll dry out enough for us to get back tomorrow. In the mean time there are plenty of nice bars and restaurants selling cold beer and good food!!